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It was after looking at few old family photographs, reading a couple of books and listening to some songs that I decided to travel to the valley of Kashmir and get to know the Kashmiriyat. I was a traveller with a budget and no destination in mind. Reaching Jammu was easy, but escaping the cab drivers who tried to lure me with the best offers for a ride to Srinagar was rather difficult. Jammu was soaring at 40 degrees celsius, and I wanting to get away from it as far as possible, I gave in to the persuasive cab driver who drove a Travera and quoted Rs.700 for a seat. It was a 10 hour long ride.
Photo Courtesy: Tony Gladvin George
The tunnel connecting Jammu district with Kashmir valley can see heavy traffic on some days. At the other side of the tunnel and around each turn of the road, the valley unfolds into picturesque views. As the landscape changed before my eyes, the deciduous line of trees morphed slowly into a thick line of pine trees against the setting sun. We reached Srinagar late in the night and managed to stay at a decent hotel paying Rs.1400 for the night.
With the soft paws of sunlight caressing my face and no particular plan to follow, I decided to make it to the only open café around Khan Market. Khan market and Lal Chowk were under curfew that morning, which I figured as I walked down the road alone, with not another soul in sight. It is said that a tourist in the valley had nothing to fear and it is true, not a single CRPF personal stopped me to inquire about my business in the eerie silence - maybe my attire smacked of a different origin!
Photo Courtesy: Kashmir Global
Figuring that there was only little I could do in Srinagar that day, I left for Pahalgam, considered to be the jannat of the valleys. I have the café owner to thank for the ride to Pahalgam. He along with his Pathan friend decided to roam the countryside and dropped me at Pahalgam for a reasonable buck. They invited me for a special hot sip of Kehwã, a hot drink made of honey and walnuts, and offered Kashmiri roti along with Namkeen chai. This was to become my staple diet for the rest of the days. The owner of the café is a part-time location consultant to many big Bollywood producers and had just finished helping out with the shooting of the movie Haider.
A slight drizzle greeted us as we entered Pahalgam from the lesser known route through clusters of small villages. A quick round of refreshments and I was ready to map Pahalgam for myself. The town being the starting point for the Amarnath Yatris boasted cuisines from all over the India. In fact, there was an unusually high number of Bengali restaurants along the main road! Pahalgam connects to Betaab Valley, Aru Valley and Chandanwari. With an evening spent quietly along the shores of Jhelum and nothing but scenery to admire, I realized how nature can be a powerful soother to the taxed soul.
Photo Courtesy: Satish Krishnamurthy
Grey clouds casted long shadow over the intimidatingly vast valley, the drizzle grew thicker, and the distant mountains ebbed away from the sight. I decided to head back to the hotel and enjoy a hot namkeen chai. The Kashmiri roti was freshly baked and warm enough to put me to sleep for the night. Next day was a short trek along Jhelum that led me to an abandoned post right in the middle of the ford.
Having spent couple of hours brooding over the breathtaking scenery around, I decided to leave for the tour of Betaab valley, Aru valley and Chandanwari glacier. The rates are fixed for such standard tours, and there is zero scope for negotiation. For a meager Rs.700, I closed the deal with a cabbie and started towards Aru Valley. Sometimes you have to travel not as a passenger but as a companion.
Photo Courtesy: Partha S. Sahana
Being a passenger to a carnival passing by is no fun if you don't indulge in it. For me, the discovery and realization of Kashmiriyat had begun.
The road curved and twisted beyond a count. All the while, Jhelum stood as a witness to my state of awe. Roads waxed and waned numerous times, sometimes all we had were three tires on the road and the fourth barely making contact with the tar. With a final turn, the town of Aru came into sight. It was nothing like I had imagined! Especially difficult with every passing second raising the expectation and setting a new bar.
I saw a couple of tents to the edge of the cliff on the left, abandoned buildings with shattered panes on the right and in between was the glistening tarmac, cajoling us to continue our journey ahead. The end of town made way for trekkers to climb the mountains and reach the snow line. The town had wooden houses and smelled of horses. Children peered out of the windows occasionally to glimpse at the caravan of passing humanity. I asked the driver to park the vehicle and decided to walk it out to a small hillock.
Photo Courtesy: Kanksha Raina
This time, I had the Kashmiri chai instead of namkeen chai and traded for Chole batoore instead of Kashmiri roti, and I did not regret my decision. I am not sure if it was the setting or the food, but I haven't forgotten that meal to this day. On the way back, I made an impromptu decision to stay put at Aru for two more days. Sometimes planning gets you nowhere and with absolutely no plan I was in the right place. I stayed in tents for a good Rs.2500 per night; and the plan to travel on a shoe string budget was out of the window. The chance to experience the stunning surroundings far outweighed any plans of limiting the budget.
During my two days of stay here, I trekked the mountain, got drenched in rain, walked in between the clouds, met a shepherd, got to know his bakri, stayed at his mud house, broke bread with his family and smoked hukkah. Kashmiriyat originates in these valleys, from such people. The mud hut leaked and dripped water, pitter patter the rain poured over the valley. The three shepherd brothers invited me to stay for the night, but I declined and promised to stop by when I visit the valley again, the promise seemed real in the moment. Kashmiriyat is a service towards a caravan called humanity.
Photo Courtesy: Fulvio Spada
After returning from Aru, my brief stay in Srinagar failed to enchant me. I did visit my old house and my school in Srinagar. A pleasant surprise was to find my class teacher after two decades, to no surprise she failed to recollect, but she was happy that someone from a far away land did remember. I was here to take a break, re-connect with the city of Srinagar, leave the clutter and the stress of mundane life behind.
It was a journey rooted in selfish origins. But Kashmir changed all that!
Meeth Maharana is an avid traveller, constantly seeking opportunities to escape the mundane life. He currently works as senior analyst for Flipkart and is always found looking for his next break!
