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Amarnath Yatra, An Adventurous Trekking Trail

By Manoj

Amarnath, situated at a distance of around 145 km from Srinagar, is considered to be one of the most important pilgrimage sites in India. The site lies at an elevation of 4175 mt above sea level and is popular among the devotees of Lord Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction. Devotees throng this natural cave with its naturally formed ice 'shivlinga', a symbol of the deity, as the main attraction. The pilgrimage site received its name from the Hindi words 'amar', which stands for immortal, and 'nath' which stands for god.

Photo Courtesy: Gktambe

As the Amarnath Yatra 2014 starts, here is a look at why a trip to Amarnath Caves is much more than a spiritual trip. One of the toughest terrains and unpredictable weather conditions puts Amarnath on the map of the most adventurous trekking trails in India.

Pahalgam

The trek starts from Pahalgam and is highly tiring. For those who want to play safe they can take buses till Chandanwari and the rest can start the trek from Pahalgam itself. You should keep in mind that the region that you are trekking in is under intense security against terrorist activity and is highly prone to natural calamity. It is advisable to have someone who has visited the place earlier, to be with you.

Chandanwari

Photo Courtesy: Nittin sain

Chandanwari is 16 km from Pahalgam and is the starting point of the Amarnath yatra. The road from Pahalgam to Chandanwari is along the Lidder lake. Chandanwari, a small picturesque valley about 6,500 ft above sea level. The climb to Pissu Top is steep. Here is where you meet the rest of the pilgrims, all moving toward a singular destination. The mountain appears suddenly out of the blue, and it is an incredible sight! One is usually on a pony during this initial climb. Thereafter, the trek is on fairly level ground and only very slightly steep. What is truly dangerous about the trek is the movement of people both ways (the track is barely enough to accommodate people in single file). It is advisable for the trekkers to walk on the inner track, towards the mountain-face. It becomes a lot trickier when it begins to rain, and the ground takes little time to turn into slush. Good shoes are a prerequisite here. Army jawans are everywhere and will give you a hand or even take you all the way should you need help. There is an infectious kind of kinship that forms between all the yatris and everyone tries to help. It is a delight to drink from the ice cold springs and waterfalls along the way.

Sheshnag

Photo Courtesy: Hardik Buddhabhatti

Sheshnag is 13 km from Chandanwari and about 11,330 ft above sea level. The trek is through primeval countryside and once you reach a given height, the sight of the Sheshnag Lake from the top is spectacular. The water from the lake flows into a steep ravine where it gushes down in torrents to form a river snaking through the valley in the distance. Sheshnag is also the name of the mountain where the cave lies. It derives its name from its seven peaks that resemble the head of the mythical snake, Sheshnag.
The campsite overlooks the deep blue waters of the lake and the glaciers beyond it. In the evening, the mist comes in, so thick, that visibility is reduced to five feet. At Sheshnag, you have tents, bedding and food for the yatris provided at affordable rates. Several free langars (kitchens) are set up to provide hot fresh food for the yatris by voluntary groups, to perform ‘seva' or service to the pilgrims. You will find langars all along the route as well as in Pahalgam and Chandanwari. Tents may be hired for costs ranging from Rs 200 upwards, depending on the number of people in a tent. Tents can accommodate up to 15 people, and the bedding is more than sufficient. The army sets up camps along each campsite to facilitate the yatri. Free medical camps that provide aid are also found at several places along the way.

Panchtarni

The next day, you will trek 12 km. The trek steadily gains height winding up across the Mahagunas Pass at 4,600 mt. The track then descends to the meadows of Panchtarni, the last camp en-route to the holy cave. Here too, like in Sheshnag, there are facilities for tents, bedding and langars. The army has special helicopters only for the yatra. STD booths are also available at every campsite, though these generally do not function! The distance from Panchtarni to Amarnath is 6 km, but start early in the morning, to get ahead in the queue to the cave.

Amarnath

Amarnath Yatra, An Adventurous Trekking Trail

Photo Courtesy: Gktambe

The trek from Panchtarni to Amarnath is particularly beautiful. The landscape changes from flatland to rocky terrain as you approach the glacier. The first sight of the cave is breath-taking. You will see thousands of people scurrying up the hill, small as ants, approaching a huge gaping mouth in the mountain. The rock face is dotted with small, coloured squares (which are actually tents). In the distance, on top of the mighty rocks and against a pristine blue sky, you can see soldiers in full gear.

The cave is situated at an elevation of 16,000 ft and is a large hemispherical hollow wedged into a cliff of white Mesozoic Dolomite. At the rear of the cave are several frozen springs. These are the springs that melt ever so slowly to form the ice lingam. And it is for the darshan (a spiritual encounter) of this lingam that pilgrims brave every hazard. The size of the lingam waxes and wanes according to the season, and at its peak, reaches a height of almost 13 to 14 ft.
The cave is about 60 ft in length, 30 ft in width and 15 ft in height. The Ganges flows below the cave. Many pilgrims, mostly sadhus, bathe in this ice cold water before entering the cave for darshan. In fact, they bathe in all the rivers that that they come across along the yatra, as part of their cleansing ritual before the darshan. At a spot near the cave, is a white substance resembling ash, which the yatris smear all over their bodies.
The floor of the cave is extremely cold and very wet. You will be given wooden slippers (khadau) to wear in the shrine. Along the path to the cave are several shops selling prasad. Sadhus are found seated on either side of the cave entrance, begging for alms from the pilgrims. The entrance to the cave is regulated, but the darshan attained after the long and arduous journey is a hasty affair!
The devotees sing bhajans, chant incantations, while the priests perform aarti and puja, invoking the blessings of Shiva. For most pilgrims, it is an overwhelming experience and many weep after the darshan, or even at the first sight of the cave.
After darshan, devotees can return to Panchtarni in time for lunch, and continue to Sheshnag where they can spend the night. Alternatively you can stay the night at Panchtarni, depending on the time of day, and return to Chandanwari/Pahalgam.

The trip is bound to drain you a lot and there are many things you should keep in mind before travelling here. For more information about the Amarnath Yatra 'Click Here'.

How to Reach Amarnath

By Air: The nearest airport is Srinagar, 140 km away. Direct flights are available only from New Delhi. Both Indian Airlines and Jet Airways fly to Srinagar. The airport is about 14 km from the city center.

By Rail: The nearest railway station is Jammu Tawi. All major Indian states are connected to Jammu via rail. Train bookings usually have to be made at least a month ahead, especially during the month of the yatra.

By Road: Jammu is well-connected to places in north India by National Highway 1A and other major all-weather roads. Buses and jeeps are available for Pahalgam or Srinagar. You can make reservations for vehicles at the Tourist Reception Centres in any of these places. There is no motorable road to the cave. The bus takes you to Chandanwari from Pahalgam (16 km) through a dusty course, which is steep and narrow and barely allows for two-way traffic.

Dolis and Ponies: From Chandanwari, which is the first base camp for the trek, ponies, dolis or dandis (palanquin) and porters are available to the cave and back. The doli comprises a seat balanced on four wooden logs. It is advisable to take a pony although for regular trekkers the walk is not difficult.

Read more about: amarnath travel nature
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